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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.